i believe i owe you an

update.

I didn't get to Lebanon. In fact, I barely got in Syria. After 20 minutes at the border, Syrian security informed me that I would have to return to Jordan, immediately. The infuriatingly long day of trying to get a transit visa, I realized my Arabic was pretty good. And I decided, that since travel to Lebanon overland was impossible, I would go visit my friend Dina in Haifa. It had been forever.

I spent 4 nights in Israel, all at Dina's new house. Her mom was incredibly sweet and fed me nonstop, and we also had some very interesting conversations. Her five-year-old brother Osher and her eight-year-old sister Orel were adorable, and they helped me to relearn and get back on track with the Hebrew I was desperately trying to find in my head. We played so many games, and we went to the playground once, even, where we played some games I never had heard of until that night. And Dina, we spent such good time together and talked about a number of different things. Some very heavy conversations that helped me realize that, wow, I'm about to enter a very very very different environment. All kinds of confusion and emotions to think about. Let's just say I've got my work cut out for me in terms of figuring out how to relate to this whole situation next semester.

Been speaking about these issues, like who am I to change someone else's society, an imperialist? with some friends here, but then again, it always ends up somewhere else because I am Jewish. Israel is a self-proclaimed Jewish state, and its existence relies heavily on the fact that should I need to, I have a place for refuge, being a Jew. In addition to that, no matter where I go, being Jewish means I am associated with the large community of Jews in Israel and its government. Israel exists for and represents me, and therefore I should have a right to play a role in its society and progress. And I do not tolerate racism, whether it is exerted on denationalized Palestinians in the West Bank and elsewhere in refuge or whether it is exerted on Israel's own Arab citizens who can never do enough to be treated equally by their own government. I understand that the notions of racism are portrayed and understood very differently in a wide part of Israeli society, but my understanding of this sensitive subject is influenced largely by my upbringing in the US, where racism is something that our country has been battling for hundreds of years and continues to fight today. And it's not just racism, it's prejudice against any certain group. This is a global issue that must be addressed, whether there is popular support for or against it, in all places on this planet.

Moving on, I had some trouble returning from Israel. There was a Hannukah party in Amman that some official people from a country nearby had invited us, the Jews and some other notable people in Jordan, to attend. I thought about going and decided I probably wouldn't because it was Jackie's last night in Jordan. However, had I gotten back in time, perhaps I would have convinced Jackie to come with Ari and I. As I keep inferring, I did not have enough time to make that decision. The Allenby Bridge closed just before I arrived with my taxi driver, forcing me to travel all the way back to the North in order to cross that bridge before it closed. Well, that sure cost a pretty penny getting up north again, and then coming back down south in Jordan.

But that's not all.

Upon exiting the West Bank, there's a little checkpoint. My Arab Israeli taxi driver, who has never been stopped at one in his life, and myself, the American Jew, were seen as a suspicious bunch, I suppose. We were taken aside, next to a large van of Arabs, some of which spoke Hebrew. As we waited for instructions, several cars passed through the checkpoint without delay. My driver kept asking what the problem was, as did I. I was surprised that my American passport was so suspicious to them, but they did ask me at one point if I had another passport. I did not mention that I was Jewish, as I did not think it was relevant (well obviously it was, but is it fair for us to skip ahead this large group of Arabs?)... We waited, they asked us to get out of the car, open every door, the trunk, the hood, take everything out, bring it in to get checked. The car was sniffed by dogs, our bags and items were x-rayed, we were sent through a metal detector and patted down thoroughly, and then we had to wait in a fenced in area with the other group until it was time. No, you may not close your car. No, you may not leave. It isn't important why those people can pass. We waited about an hour before it was time for us to become "free" again. As I went in to fetch my belongings, I spoke with one of the guards who seemed to be a ringleader. We were free, but I thought I might give her a piece of my mind. It went, in wonderful Hebrew, something like this:

I am an American Jew, and I am on my way to Amman, Jordan because I studied Arabic there for a semester. Because of this, I am late to a Hannukah party hosted by the Ishpaeli Shmembassy (maybe I shouldn't type it out for security reasons). Never in my life did I imagine that the Israeli army would make me, a Jew, late for something like this, but at the same time, it does not surprise me. Chag Sameach.

Her jaw dropped, and I exited, proud. She walked back to her other companions and looking at me, must have been telling them the story. I discussed this with my taxi driver afterward, who kindly was taking me 4 hours out of his way so that I could get back to Jordan, even though I paid, it was such a schlep. He told me that he's married to a Jewish woman, and I told him how beautiful I thought that was. We bonded for a moment, and I'm sorry I didn't get his number because he was so cool. I got to Jordan, got to Amman, and spent the night with my friends. It was a long, tiring day, but it was an experience. I zig-zagged through all of the northern half of Israel and the West Bank, saw a lot of things that I forgot to describe, but it's okay, I'll tell you when I see you, and I saw, firsthand, the racism that is not only accepted but also made part of the system.

Just doing some errands this week, getting things together, and taking in the city through this very strong wind-sandstorm that has engulfed the city. Spending time with friends that I won't be as close to next semester. Enjoy some photographs from the past week or so...

--Ibrahim

PS - Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!!!!!!